So, you’ve decided to visit one of Europe’s most beautiful volcanos! My visit to Santorini was easily one of the best vacations I’ve ever had. I wrote down everything I know about visiting the island, and how to make it the best trip possible.
How many days you need: A lot of people will say you only need at most two full days in Santorini. Unless you only want to stay in your hotel with a caldera view and go to a couple restaurants in close vicinity, I think you need 4-5. Santorini is not as tiny as most people say, and it can take 40 minutes to get to where you need to go depending on your mode of transportation and traffic. The island is very spread out, so I wouldn’t recommend trying to see more than two different parts of the island in the same day.
Where to stay: I highly recommend choosing a place to stay that has a caldera view, and not at the beaches. The caldera, which is a volcanic cliff, is what makes Santorini beautiful and unique. The best way to see the beaches is from a boat. If you want to hang out at a beach club all day, I recommend choosing a different island, as Santorini beaches are very rocky, which can be painful to walk on and makes the water a very dark blue. The smaller villages, such as Pyrgos and Megalochori, are nice to visit for a couple hours, but will not be an ideal home base.
Imerovigli and Firastefani: These villages are basically in the center of the island along the caldera and even when I was there in July, I was never stuck in any foot traffic. There are also dozens of places you can watch the sunset from there along the sidewalk that won’t have any crowds. The first night I watched the sunset from the steps leading down to Skaros Rock, with only two other people nearby. The second night was just on the sidewalk, where my boyfriend and I were completely alone. Both are just a 20-35 minute walk to Fira, and the hiking trail to Oia runs through both villages as well.
Fira: Fira is the liveliest place on Santorini. It has fun energy, good shopping, and restaurants are less expensive than in Oia and Imerovigli. Another huge benefit is that Fira is where the main bus port is located, which you will have to connect through to get anywhere on the island by bus. For example, you can’t go straight from Kamari Beach to Oia. You will have to take the bus to Fira, and transfer to the Fira-Oia bus. So, if you plan to use the bus to get around the island (which I highly recommend), Fira is the most convenient place to stay. Again, Imerovigli and Firostefani are walkable distance to Fira, and buses run the Fira-Firostefani-Imerovigli route every 30 minutes or so. Fira has many places to watch the sunset, but it is at a lower point along the caldera than Imerovigli.
Oia: I would only base yourself in Oia if you don’t plan on leaving your hotel often, which, especially if you’ve already been to Santorini, I wouldn’t blame you for since gazing out at the caldera with a bottle of local wine is probably the best thing do to on the island. If this is the case, get a hotel with a caldera and sunset view. I’ve heard so many stories of people barely being able to get in and out of their accommodation in Oia because of the crowds.
Avoiding the crowds: You can avoid crowds for the most part as long as you plan ahead of time.
Oia is worth a visit, but you need to arrive at 8 or 9am. Even at 10:30, people will start wandering around taking photos, and the pathways are very, very narrow, which is what can make it feel so crowded. We got there around 9:15am on a Thursday (not sure if a weekday versus a weekend makes a difference, but probably not in July), explored for about an hour and a half without having to wait in any lines for photos or feeling crowded, and then walked down to Ammoudi Bay. The restaurants weren’t open quite yet, but you can still walk around and enjoy the view with the added benefit of no dining patrons to navigate through. I wouldn’t try to visit Oia for sunset, but keep reading for some other suggestions on where to watch from.
Fira tends to get busiest at night, as that is where what little night life exists on Santorini is, and where the cruise ship passengers get back to their ships. Most ships depart after sunset. I didn’t find walking around there at night overwhelming, but enjoyed the area more during the day. There will be crowding around the cable car when boats start bringing cruise ship passengers to the island in the morning and when they return. You can find those specific times online. The ferry from Athens and the other islands will also dock at the Fira port.
During my five-day stay, not once did I experience a crowd in Imerovigli. It’s calm and quiet, and most people tend to hangout at their hotels. You may be able to see some people lounging in nearby hotels, as many of them are connected which I found very comforting. You may also observe a flying dress photo shoot here.
Firostefani is slightly busier along the caldera, as many people venture along the walking path there, and there are a ton of restaurants with caldera and sunset views in Firostefani. It will be busiest around sunset time, but we didn’t find it to be too crowded at any other time of day.
As far as the beaches go, Perissa Beach tends to be the busiest, followed by Kamari. The only beach I hung out on was Vlychada Beach. It’s not huge, but it’s very calm and wasn’t crowded at all. There’s plenty of parking space, lounge chairs with umbrellas, a bar, two great restaurants close by (To Psaraki and Fisherman’s House), and the tomato museum is right there. I went around 2pm, and there was only a handful of people. However, I would only recommend coming here if you have a car rental, as the bus only runs every three hours, and there aren’t any taxis hanging around.
Another tip for avoiding crowds is to choose restaurants without a caldera view. If you really want to, do this once, but you will get better food for less of a hassle and less euros at a place that doesn’t have the view. Or, you can watch the sunset outside somewhere and then head to dinner after sunset hours, which is pretty standard eating time on the island anyway.
Sunset: People tend to go to Oia for the sunset because it is the Western most part of the island, but in order to see the sunset in Oia with an unobstructed view, you need to go to the very tip of Oia, which is why it gets so crowded. Imerovigli is much higher up than Oia, and you get to watch the sunset from the middle of the caldera. I would recommend checking exactly where the sunset will be setting based on what month you visit, as the exact location will change based on Earth’s relation to the Sun. That can also help you decide on a hotel, if you want to watch the sunset from your hotel. Skaros Rock is a great place to watch the sunset, although not with the most comfortable seat. But the rock is a must visit if you’re in Imerovigli. The lighthouse in Akrotiri will also give you a great view, as you can face directly West. It’s directly across the caldera from Oia. Another option is to watch the sunset from a catamaran cruise, but keep in mind it can get a bit chilly after the sun goes down, and it tends to be even more windy on the water than on the island. Some people enjoy watching the sunset from Pyrgos because it is the highest point on the island and has a panoramic view. Francos Cafe has a great view, so if you want to watch the sunset from here, make sure to book a reservation well in advance and request a table with a sunset view.
Even better than the sunset in my opinion, was the sunrise, which you can see from the beaches. While we didn’t have a view from Imerovigli of the sun breaching the horizon, seeing the sun taking over for the moon to light up the white buildings and the sea was one of my favorite moments of the whole trip. And, with the added bonus that the cruise ships hadn’t arrived yet, so the caldera was completely empty. Set your alarm early, make some coffee, and watch the island wake up. Do this on the day you visit Oia since you’ll want to get an early move-on anyway.
Best time of year to visit: Most people will say the best time to visit is the shoulder season, when there are less tourists and things are less expensive. I actually disagree. Outside of peak season, most hotels and restaurants are not open. I believe they usually open at the end of April or May. Additionally, Fira will most likely be your only option for accommodation, shops, and restaurants, as Imerovigli, Oia, and the beaches only come alive for the tourist season.
The weather is hot in the summer, but it’s not humid, doesn’t rain, and there tends to be an almost constant breeze which feels great when you’re walking around.
My biggest argument for visiting in the summer is that’s when the local produce ripens. Santorini tomatoes, eggplant, fava, and wine grapes are very special due to the fact they grow in volcanic soil with little rain, so you must try the wine and local produce when you visit. Tomatoes ripen in July, most vegetables ripen in June or July, and most wine grapes are harvested in August. Many restaurants on the island grow their own produce in gardens or farmland, so it’s a treat to have the opportunity to sample what the island has to offer. If you visit before it’s time to harvest, you will most likely be eating produce that’s been shipped to the island.
Must-Do Activities: There is far more to do on Santorini than people will lead you to believe. In my opinion, you could spend an entire week there.
Skaros Rock: A gorgeous rock formation that juts out of Imerovigli’s cliffside. It’s a beautiful landmark where you can watch the sunset and enjoy a view of the inside of the caldera. There used to be a fortress built for the Greek Goddess Athena here, which you can still see ruins of.
Wineries: You must try the wine on the island. I had wine from Domaine Sigalas, Vassaltis, and Gavalas, and this is hands-down the best wine I’ve ever had. Santorini is famous for their white wines, specifically the Assyrtiko. All the wineries I’m familiar with on the island grow Assyrtiko. You must also try the Vinsanto dessert wine, it’s marvelous and beats a port wine. You should be able to find this anywhere as well. Gavalas Winery has a fantastic rose called Voudomato which I highly recommend you try. Domaine Sigalas has a red wine called MM, which was lovely. My boyfriend and I drank two bottles of Vassaltis’ Nassaltis, which was delicious and didn’t give us any hint of a headache or hangover. I’m not a tour person, but if you want to visit a lot of wineries, I do recommend booking a wine tour. Many of the wineries are inaccessible by bus, except for Santo Winery, so you will need to take a taxi. Vassaltis arranged a pick-up for us which was 20 euros each way. A wine tour will take care of transportation for you, and you’ll get to visit three different wineries with a guide. Then, visit another winery on your own to sip at your own pace.
Catamaran Tour: There are usually two options for the boat ride: sunset or daytime. I did the daytime cruise on a Saturday and was very happy with that decision. There were about 15 people on our catamaran, and everyone was very polite and calm. Our crew was lovely as well, led by Maria. The boat company will arrange a van to pick you up and drop you off from your hotel or somewhere close by. We had a few different swimming points, and Maria pointed out the landmarks and their history along the way. The crew made us a delicious lunch, and you get unlimited beverages, including wine, though not the best wine you’ll have on the island. Expect some bumps and very salty water!
Oia: The iconic village of Oia is well-worth a visit, and you don’t want to miss out on the picturesque buildings and gorgeous views of the caldera and neighboring islands. You just need to go early in the morning, stay until lunch time, and then head out.
Hike Fira-Oia: This is about a 3-hour walk, so you don’t need to do the whole thing, especially in the summer. If you want to, I would do this during sunrise as it will be light enough to see, but not as hot. I only walked from Fira to Imerovigli which is about 40 minutes, but I would do the whole thing on my next trip.
Pyrgos/Megalochori: These are very charming villages away from all the glamour of the caldera. These villages are a great opportunity to learn a bit more about the history of the island and for a quiet day. Pyrgos has a lovely wine shop near the bus stop where you may be able to sample some Vinsanto. Aimlessly walk up to the top of the village and you’ll stumble across some shops, beautiful churches that are worth going into, and castle ruins at the very top. Megalochori has live music, a museum dedicated to Greek music called Symposium, and rests right in between Gavalas Winery and Venetsanos Winery. Also check out the rock formation called The Heart of Santorini.
Eat Local Cuisine: Relish in the fact that you’re on a volcanic island, and find out what that tastes like. The sea is home to many different kinds of fish, and many restaurants get fresh fish daily to serve for dinner. Try vine leaves stuffed with rice and herbs, tomato fritters, fava bean puree with fresh bread, white wine, eggplant puree, zucchini, and capers. If you can, try a Santorini salad, which is similar to a greek salad, but with local produce. It comes with tomatoes, capers, vine leaves, cucumbers, and chloro cheese (a cheese native to the island). Not many restaurants have this cheese, but you can get it at Domaine Sigalas, Aktaion, and The Good Heart.
There are also many museums and cultural sites to visit. You have the well-known ones such as The Museum of Prehistoric Thera and the Akrotiri archeological site. There is also the Tomato Museum which I’ve heard great things about and takes you through the history of tomato production on the island. You have the Lost Atlantis Experience, Symposium, the Greek Wedding Play. Many locals offer dinner parties at their homes where they will cook homemade food for small groups of people. Many locals also offer cooking classes. Booking a food tour is also an option. You can visit an open-air cinema in Firostefani or Kamari. Volcan on the Rocks in Firostefani has a caldera view, but a small screen, and viewers are required to wear headphones. I’ve heard wonderful things about the Kamari theater, which is less expensive and looks beautiful. You can rent jetskis, but the sea does get very rough because of the wind, so I’d stick to the catamaran. If you’re a book worm, get a souvenir from Atlantis Books in Firostefani.
Transportation Around the Island: The two best options are renting a car or taking the bus. The bus is pretty efficient and quick, but you should study the bus routes in advance. If you’re staying outside of Fira, you’ll need to take the bus from your village into Fira, and connect onto a different bus there. The Fira-Perissa bus stops at Santo Wines and Pyrgos. Also, when you’re at a bus stop that isn’t a main station, make sure you wave down the incoming bus so they stop for you. The bus is air conditioned and pretty big. It costs 2 euros. I loved taking the bus. I looked into renting an automatic car for my 5-day stay which would have been $186, so not bad. We thought driving and parking would be a little hectic, so we opted for public transportation instead. I think a car would be useful for a day or two, but the roads can be slightly intimidating. If you aren’t into taking the bus and a 40 euro taxi ride sounds more stressful than driving around the island yourself, rent the car.
Other Tips:
- Bring some cash. Most places accept card payments, but you should have cash for taxis, the bus, and souvenir shops.
- Hotels charge an “environmental fee” upon checkout, so know you will have to pay more than just your room charge each night.
- The tap water is not safe to drink, so stock up on bottled water if you’re in an Air BnB. If you’re in a hotel, they will provide water for you. Don’t open your mouth in the shower.
- Don’t throw anything in the toilets, not even toilet paper. It has to go in the trash as the sewage system cannot handle paper.
- Before you get into a taxi, ask them how much it will cost to your destination. If you find a reasonably priced service, take their card or their WhatsApp so you can use them throughout the trip.
- If you want to buy some wine or groceries for your room, look at a couple different shops in the area if you have time. Ilios Bakery in Imerovigli was charging almost double the price for wine compared to other stores.
- Reservations are helpful for restaurants, especially if you’d like to request a certain view or specific type of table, but most restaurants do their best to accommodate walk-ins too. You can always ask your hotel or AirBnB host to make or cancel reservations for you.
- Bring your own sunscreen, minimum 50 SPF. Every single day we were there, the UV was 10. The sun is intense and places will charge 15-20 euros for a bottle of sunscreen. I recommend bringing a headscarf to protect your scalp and forehead. A hat works too, but there can be random gusts of wind, so be ready to hold it down.
- Wear comfortable shoes. Leave your heels at home, just trust me. Wear comfy loafers or flats for dinner. People are dressed a lot more casual than you would think.
- Hit the gym before your trip. You will have a much better experience if you’re not huffing and puffing the entire time from all the stairs.
- Santorini is not a party island. There’s not a ton of nightlife, and everyone is pretty quiet, so don’t expect clubs, and don’t be blasting music into all hours of the night.
- Fly to the island rather than taking a ferry. Ferries take 5-8 hours, and get canceled often due to high winds which make the water too choppy.
- Greet locals with Yah-Soo (hello), Kalimera (good morning), and Kalispera (good evening).
- Look on Reddit for travel tips and restaurant recommendations. Sebi the Guide on YouTube is also helpful!
